Saturday, April 1, 2017

Blue Satin



This is one of my first dresses I made from fully pattern drafting and woo was it a killer mainly since I haven't worked with satin since high school. It was also my first time working with horsehair braid which I was so EXCITED about. its a simple dress with a lapel in the back and a long skirt. Looking at the front wheel in the front picture it looks... Creepy, like she has a pogo stick peg leg almost... But back to the dress, the bodice is fitted with a side zipper and is fully lined, the back other than the lapel is an open back as you can see and the skirt is broken up into 6 panels. I added a slit in the center front since I wanted to also do something to the front since it was to conservative for my taste. I wanted to add feathers too and or fringe but... I've been told less is more and so have been trying to dial back my designs at this point. 

Completed March 31, 2017

Four of Pentacles (Draping 2)

   


This dress I based off of the four off pentacles card. I based it off of this mainly since when reading the novel I remember one card that really popped out that the artist recreated with her characters instead which was the four of pentacles card but, I believe it was from the garden tarot deck. It had on the card peppers and pen castles scattered about along with the main character looking directly at you. I've always been fond of plants and that card just seemed to really stick with me in my head for the longest time. The dress itself is made from 100% cotton fabric and as you might not see it has pepper prints on it. There is a single box pleat radiating from the center back waist and a tulle center front for a bit of appeal. The skirt itself is just a plain circle skirt but, to depreciate the pentacles I cut out 4 circles on the skirt and filled it with tulle. I believe once I did this, the dress was complete and all I wanted to do left was just to finish it which I just mainly used bias tape for since anything more would have made it look to over done. 

Please note, the original model is much shorter and smaller than even the size 8 dress form that I used which is why I added her photo to show you how it really looks. Its a shame however I forgot to take a photo of her in the back......-sigh-...


Completed February 22, 2016

Broken Symmetry (Draping 1)

 


This geometric slacks I just traced cut on the fabric itself. Its made from a polyester knit and is lined. The torso body is from my hoodie that I then cut up into what you see are the random triangles. The cowl collar I also wanted to give an interesting take to since its different on both the inside and out front and back of the right sides of the garment and thought this would be a nice touch. I wanted it to look simple in the front and then BAM! In the back. The sweat pants to this outfit I used the shape of a regular pair of Levi jeans and then “slash and spread” the pattern piece all together until out came the result but, it is only gathered on one side of the pants. 



Completed December 1, 2015

Gothic Madam (Draping 1)


 










This dresses main body was up cycled from various garments. The sleeves of the top was made from a pair of dress pants and interestingly it isn’t closed but rather the top of the sleeve is open. The torso itself is made from a stripped skirt and the skirt of the whole ensemble ironically was made from a wrap skirt. The tulle and fringe additions were the only things that weren’t up cycled and had to be purchased. The train in the back I hand detailed by gathering the tulle in certain areas, I wanted to create a sort of sporadic effect. I decided it needed the tulle train and “ascot” thing because it looked too plain to me. I wanted to add drama and although less is more in cases, when I paired the two together, it just clicked in my brain and it felt like it was complete.

This design was based purely off of a gothic design concept I had in my head for a long time. I know this doesn't look as nice on the form which is why I provided an image of how it looked like on the model, isn't it lovely? 



Completed November 9, 2015

Completed: November 2, 2015The torso itself is made from a stripped skirt and the skirt of the whole onsoumble ironically
was made from a wrap skirt. The tulle and fringe addions were the only things that weren’t
upcycled and had to be purchased. The train in the back I hand detailed by gathering the tulle in
certain areas, I wanted to create a sort of sporadic eect. I decided it needed the tulle train and
“hascot” thing because it looked too plain to me. I wanted to add drama and although less is
more in cases, when I paired the two together, it just clicked in my brain and it felt like it was
complete.This design was based purely o of a gothic design concept I had in my head for a long
me.This dresses main body was upcycled from various garments. The sleeves of the top was made
from a pair of dress pants and interesngly it isn’t closed bu rather the top of the sleeve is open.
The torso itself is made from a stripped skirt and the skirt of the whole onsoumble ironically
was made from a wrap skirt. The tulle and fringe addions were the only things that weren’t
upcycled and had to be purchased. The train in the back I hand detailed by gathering the tulle in
certain areas, I wanted to create a sort of sporadic eect. I decided it needed the tulle train and
“hascot” thing because it looked too plain to me. I wanted to add drama and although less is
more in cases, when I paired the two together, it just clicked in my brain and it felt like it was
complete.This design was based purely o of a gothic design concept I had in my head for a long
me.from a pair of dress pants and interesngly it isn’t closed bu rather the top of the sleeve is open.
The torso itself is made from a stripped skirt and the skirt of the whole onsoumble ironically
was made from a wrap skirt. The tulle and fringe addions were the only things that weren’t
upcycled and had to be purchased. The train in the back I hand detailed by gathering the tulle in
certain areas, I wanted to create a sort of sporadic eect. I decided it needed the tulle train and
“hascot” thing because it looked too plain to me. I wanted to add drama and although less is
more in cases, when I paired the two together, it just clicked in my brain and it felt like it was
complete.This design was based purely o of a gothic design concept I had in my head for a long
me.

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Fish Scale Skirt


Hello everyone and I'm sorry for the wait! I've again been very busy since I finally also found a job and so its been taking up a lot of my time as well as school but, finally finished!

I call this a "fish scale" skirt since the very curved pieces in the skirt remind me of fish scales from this show that I also like to watch called Rehab Addict on DIY network. She repaired some on a house she was doing but, thats another story all together.

So before you guys think anything, this will probably be the official end of any spring/summer stuff for a while. Working in the concept of fall/ winter and already came up with a great idea, I just need someone to test run it so to speak but, onto the design!

This skirt is a peplum skirt with a red waistband. The peplum part I added a pop of red as you can tell and am also playing with a floral and white piece of fabric I found. It is split similarly to the "Black and Red With White in the Middle" skirt post I did a few weeks ago but, no zipper and the top stitching is different as well. The waist band I wanted to do something differently and unfortunately didn't go as planned, the white part in the center of the front was supposed to "triangle" more but, with my lack of knowledge in pattern making I'm really bad at it sometimes unfortunately. The closure on this is the simple hook and eye for the waistband part and Center Zipper for the skirt half. 

Over all I got mixed reviews about this skirt. Some say the skirt would look better with black and floral instead of white, others say its fine. For some reason people also got a "japanese" vibe from it. Personally, I like it but, also could see how much more it would of popped with the black and floral concept. The red parts though, I'm still keeping since I love that color of pop. 

So yes, sorry again it took so long, I also hope I can find someone to "test run" my idea of my first attempt at fall/winter apparel. Please comment on what you guys think of this and if you guys have any request. 


Monday, September 29, 2014

Sorry but, Please Keep Waiting!!!

Hello blog community, I'm sorry for anyone who has or is waiting for an update. I've been very busy lately, and let's just say it's going to continue to be busy. I have been able to start sewing though after all the business in my schedule and currently am still working on it. I am not sure how difficult it is for others but this is something that right now is taking me some time since of the sewing technique. Let's just say this involves a protractor and the sewing for it must be almost onset perfect. Not to much allowance or to little. I'm going to update this post later to show you guys a sneak peak.

If anyone is interested in how to make it once the finish product is done I would be happy to tell you step by step instructions and photos on how to do it.

Update: 
So here is a picture of the pieces and as you can see it is quite circular or curved since well it's half of a circle. I hope this turns out okay at least since if it does, I have some more ideas on this kind of design :) 


Thursday, September 18, 2014

Proof is in the Plaid (Pants!) (Simplicity 4760)




So unfortunately I can't take full credit for these awesome pants that I made so the credit goes to the Pattern Simplicity 4760. That being said the construction is different. The pants are supposed to be like khakis but, I wanted to do something that wasn't in a khaki material so I picked cotton!

Being that I am not the same height as other guys and I still wear kids sizes (I really do), there was a lot of altering in this. For starters the pattern was nice enough to add two sets, one for a men's size and another for kids. With that being said, the fit for the kids would of done better but, the waist and hips were better fitting for me over all. The legs however, well that wasn't any fun. Pants in themselves aren't much of a challenge but, its the fly front that is a tad confusing but, thats later. First the pattern pieces!

People have told me i'm more slender and so I had to seriously take it in. The sizes on the pattern aren't 12-14-16-ect. but, small, medium, large and x-large. I chose small but, the legs on the small are way to big still so I took in before I cut from around the buttock down about two inches, and then put the pattern against my leg to see if it fit well and it was close. The same with the back piece. I then also took the hem up a tremendous amount and mind you I think I shaved off about four inches on both pattern pieces before actually pinning and cutting.

When I did start the construction of the garment, it said to cut one fly front but, I'm used to do the fly with two (I can provide a link if you readers would like :) and trust me when I say this: NEVER LISTEN TO THE PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS FOR A FLY FRONT ZIPPER! It was confusing and so glad I did it my way. To get around the fraying of the fabric, I measured an extra 5/8 of an inch around the fly front but, just not the top since that tucks neatly into the waistband. Then you just do a bridal hem as I've learned around the extra and you have a neat finish that pinking shears yes they do well but, I don't trust them 100% since of my experience. The same was done with the curve of the pants pattern, which does well actually if anyone says otherwise. Then the fly front zipper was done and the pockets were then placed. Mind you these pockets I didn't like originally since I want something to fit my wallet and phone without the worry of falling out so I added zipper to the pockets but, these were patch pockets so it was easy. after that was done I then sewed the legs together but, I didn't top stitch like I normally do since I know with my size, I still have to take in. I then moved onto the waist band which I then interfaced and again strayed from directions. I actually noticed in my years of sewing that the patterns for the waistbands yes are getting more considerate about fabric usage but, also they are getting really really small so instead of just cutting one piece of each I cut two. I then folded and top stitched the waist band to it. I forgot to add, the carriers were added before the waist band and then the top of the carrier is folded and then a close zig-zag stitch is applied to not let it move. Remember everyone, carriers don't always match the size of the waistband, I checked on my jeans and was surprised myself actually. The hem, I added an extra piece of fabric since I don't like my socks showing and I thought it looked nice.

This is a separate paragraph just for the resizing. All that taking in on the pattern and such didn't help as much as I thought. They were just to big since I ended up taking another 4 inches in on each side and when I tried them on, they were still to baggy and didn't look good on me. If anyone is wondering how I got it to hug my legs more, I made fish eye darts (If I remember the correct term). The dart is right down the middle for both legs and starts about an inch after the patch pocket for the front and a little below where my butt ends. It is 1inch at its center on both sides and is about I would say ends 1 1/2 inch before the break in the hem. I added it since I don't like baggy looking pants and I wanted these to be a twist on some professional attire.

So what do you guys think? If you guys like, I can show you how I finish my raw edges my way for those who don't have a domestic serger or a serger (serger is also known as an overlock machine) in general and don't want to do pinking shears in the next post. Its a bit more work but, you'll love the outcome! I can also show you guys a easy way to do a fly front that will come out perfect every time! I actually want to do another pair of plaid pants but, in a different plaid.